Want to expand on this since gib adjustment is one of those skills that takes a few tries to get the feel for.
The biggest mistake I see: adjusting all four gibs equally. The wear pattern is almost never uniform. The operator side typically wears faster than the back because that's where the die load is biased (operators tend to set dies slightly forward for visibility). Check each gib independently with a feeler gauge before you start adjusting.
Here's my actual procedure:
1. Move the slide to mid-stroke. Not TDC, not BDC — mid-stroke. This is where the gib contact area is most representative of running conditions.
2. Measure clearance at each gib with feeler gauges. Record all four numbers. On a well-worn press, I typically see 0.02-0.03mm on the back gibs and 0.04-0.06mm on the front.
3. Loosen the lock screws on the tightest gib first (usually the back). Adjust until you get 0.015-0.02mm clearance. This is tighter than most manuals specify (they usually say 0.03mm) but I've found that 0.02mm gives better part accuracy without causing excessive heat.
4. Work around to each gib, adjusting to the same 0.015-0.02mm target.
5. Here's the critical step everyone skips: after all four are set, move the slide to BDC and re-check. The frame deflects under the slide weight at BDC and the clearances change. If any gib goes to zero clearance at BDC, back it off slightly.
6. Run 50 strokes at 50% speed. Stop. Check gib temperature with an IR gun. All four should be within 5C of each other. If one is significantly hotter, it's too tight — back it off 1/8 turn.
7. Run 200 strokes at full speed. Re-check temperature and clearance. This is your final verification.
The temperature check is the real secret. You can measure clearance all day with feeler gauges, but the thermal response tells you what's actually happening under dynamic conditions. A gib that measures 0.02mm static but runs 15C hotter than the others is binding during the stroke — the feeler gauge can't catch that.